A Travellerspoint blog

By this Author: AmyERichards

They Even Fried The Carrot Cake!

On our diet here...

So friends and family have been asking about food since we’ve been here: mostly, “how is it?” Generally speaking, Latin American cuisine consists of rice, beans, root vegetables, plantains and corn. Supplement these basic food stuffs with arepas (or any variety of corn-based pancake or tortilla), dozens of varieties of delicious fruits, fried pig and chicken parts. Jumble this around, mix some of it in bowls, and you have what you generally eat throughout the day, every day here.

I don’t get too tired of rice and beans and fruits and veggies, but it gets pretty tough to sustain ourselves in any healthy way when the only options on the road are fried… everything. There’s fried chicken, fried chicken pastries, fried empanadas, fried chicharron (pig skin), fried cow intestine, fried fish on the bone, fried plantains, fried mashed potatoes, fried potato chips, fried and battered rice cakes, fried yucca, fried doughballs, fried onion rings, and fried corn cakes: kind of like your good ole’ people’s fair back in the States.

To say the least, we’ve jumped at the chance to buy granola and raisins and fruit and carrots to travel with, so as not to saturate our bodies too much in the saturated-fats buffet here. Still, it’s impossible to avoid having to eat at least a few fried foods a day… T.L. isn’t complaining too much about it really.

Why so much fried food? Well, foods are generally prepared stovetop, as most people do not have an oven in the home. In addition, the best option for street vendors is portable burners. So the quickest and easiest prep, which doesn’t require much seasoning or special ingredients, is frying. When I talk about heavily fried foods, this means, if you place your fried food on a stack of napkins, it will soak through around 15, while still leaving an oil mark on the table.

We had a menu-of-the-day meal recently (they usually come with 2-3 courses and a juice, and can be found at any number of small eateries that line every town)… This one included soup and salad and carrot cake, so I was pretty excited. When our meal came, T.L. asked what I thought the little fried thing was on our plates, and I said “Who knows? Just another little fried thing...” We both bit in, and said wow, that is super fried and really delicious, but what is it? Then I saw some trace of a shaving of carrot… it was the carrot cake! They battered… and fried… the carrot cake! The default healthy dessert! The sacrilege! They knew it would be delicious! So I let T.L. finish mine, as it was very rich, and I supplemented with some ice-cream later that night.

The Colombian diet is also heavy in meat: pork, beef, chicken, lamb, sausages, hotdogs, hamburgers etc. so for a mostly non-meat eating person, I’ve had to slowly introduce more meat into the diet. While T.L. had been thoroughly enjoying our vegetarian meals at Organizmo, his only birthday wish had been for meat. So, I set off to town with Itamar, a vegetarian, in search of birthday supplies. We thought we had done a good job buying some raw red meat and chicken, until T.L. told me, post-barbecue, he wasn’t even sure it was meat.

Thus far in Ecuador, however, we’ve tried a large selection of tasty, less-fried snacks, and we’ve been able to make some of our own food again at our WWOOF site in Baños and couchsurfing. So we’ve made it so far without having to eat guinea pig, but it’s coming sooner than later. House-pet-impaled-on-metal-stick-over-hot-coals (cuy) has yet to ignite my appetite, but who knows what we’ll eat at the end of a treacherous day of hiking!

Posted by AmyERichards 15:33 Archived in Colombia Tagged rice cake corn foods carrot colombia ecuador fried beans Comments (0)

I Am What I Wear

One of the joys of backpacking has always been low maintenance dress: few options makes it easy to get dressed every day, or to get ready to go out at night, right? Sure, it keeps things simple, but not necessarily fun, and certainly not flattering. So as backpackers, don’t you get away with wearing anything wherever you are? That’s what they say: because you live out of a bag and you’re from some foreign place…

But what does this living out-of-a-bag mean for the traveler herself?

While I often opt for low maintenance clothing at home, dress has always been an important form of expression for me. I have always gotten a kick out of inventing accessories and jewelry to embellish daily attire. In all my past travels, I have managed to maintain something of my own style with what I have packed, but I found myself very limited this trip: I needed insect-shield gear, old work t-shirts, and hiking boots, and no extras, or no more than I could carry a very long distance.

So while I have been very aware of how generally unattractive my daily outfit is, I have been more aware of how generally common it is. Every day, I match a few dozen cargo-style, safari gear-wearing European men. I feel colorless and I notice people not noticing all the flair that isn’t there. I am in my travel uniform and it’s terribly repressive.

But I guess that’s me just being tired of wearing the same shirt and pants day in and day out.

And then I ride the bus with dozens of schoolchildren who wear uniforms all 10 years of grade school, because they have no choice. And I spend a week with Edimer, who wears the same shirt and pants all week because he tends to pigs and their babies day and night and can’t bother with a clean shirt. And his nephew, baby Alejo, doesn’t even wear pants or a diaper because a shirt will do. And a father explains that a school uniform is a godsend because his child’s one other outfit is torn and stained and he wouldn’t want anyone besides the family to see him in it, anyway.

And suddenly it seems silly that clothing was ever a form of self-expression and I begin to question how many other “needs” my self has had all this time.

So I look at my lap, and see how terribly practical my cargo pants really are.

Posted by AmyERichards 15:07 Archived in Ecuador Comments (0)

Talking About Climate Change

For the first five weeks of our trip, climate change has been the buzz word. We haven´t ever needed to bring the subject up on our own, everyone just talks about it here.

Colombia has suffered severely, like so many other countries in tropic zones, from shifts in climate that have caused draughts, flooding and natural disasters that have destroyed thousands of homes and livelihoods. So it makes sense that climate change is a topic of serious interest here, to everyone.

Considering we have been traveling at altitudes of up to 12,000 feet, the sun can be more dangerous than pleasant. Not only are you more vulnerable to the effects of ultraviolet radiation because you are physically closer to the sun, but studies show that Colombia, a tropic zone near the equator, has suffered the greatest depletion of its ozone of any country in the western hemisphere. So the mal-effects of sunlight here are considerably more severe: the immediate solutions of which are frequent sun block reapplications, full-coverage clothing and sombreros. But the long-term solutions continue to be debated, especially by the younger generation here, or the “Climate Change Generation”.

While volunteering at Organizmo last month, the design school for sustainable building, we helped lead a workshop that was being offered to the Colombia’s 2011 Climate Champions, or 20-something’s who have each been working on unique sustainable farming, energy, social projects pertaining to climate change. Throughout the weekend we met young farmers who were repopulating the Colombian countryside with native, near-extinct species of plants, students who were feeding underserved communities by growing vegetables in recycled bottles on green roofs, and young women leading awareness campaigns about the effects of climate change on the valuable “Paramo”s, or the highest vegetative level of life in the world, 70% of which is found in Colombia. At breaks, groups sporting “Climate Change Generation” t-shirts spread themselves in circles to discuss permaculture and solutions to their nation’s greatest ecological challenges.

In Medellin, we stayed with a recent college grad, Laura, whose father worked for Empresas Publicas de Medellin (EPM), the largest public utilities company in Latin America. Years ago, her father presciently lobbied to form a climate change team for the corporation. He has been leading the team for EPM ever since, attending climate change summits for the past 15 years and brainstorming methods to reduce its impact and reverse the process. While out for a drink, Laura was vehement about the need to stay active in the movement to reduce the effects of climate change. She shared her plans to continue studying public policy and sustainable development, in order to work on climate change policy as a career.

Most of all, however, we hear about climate change from the farmers, as they are the ones who are most immediately effected by droughts, floods, seasonal shifts and unreliable weather conditions. Nor are farmers here unaware of the causes of climate change. They are well-informed about the greatest carbon emitters, the persistent abusers a few meridian lines to the north. They are also fully aware of the reluctance of these countries to change. When the crops don’t grow or do, but are then destroyed, their only choice is to try, try again.
Meanwhile, they have little power to change the factors that perpetuate speeding climate change throughout the world.

When the rain doesn’t stop for days during the “dry” season and refuses to fall during the “wet”, the people look up and sigh, “climate change”: a problem that isn’t going away, a problem that we will continue to talk about with both its perpetrators and its victims, that is, everyone we encounter along we meet along this journey.

Posted by AmyERichards 15:02 Archived in Colombia Comments (0)

Developments on Colombia’s Development

Upon first glance, it seemed Colombia was cruising down the development fast track, but by the end of our time here we see speedy development does not translate to the high life for all Colombians: the fancy cars, upscale malls and flashy architecture that characterize metropolitan areas belie the story of the rest of the population. Like most every rapidly developing or developed nation these days, Colombians speak openly of increasing inequality. The Gini coefficient here, the index used to measure inequality, is 0.587 (considered high- this is a bad thing) and one of the highest in Latin America. Although Colombia has the fourth largest economy in Latin America, the income ratio between the richest and poorest 10% surges over 80-to-1. The poverty rate here is at 46 percent.

The cost of living, especially in major cities, is very high. In fact, we have been surprised to find that prices for food, alcohol and clothing rival or surpass those in the United States. Beyond cost of living, travel through Colombia is relatively very expensive. Gas runs around $5/gallon, so even bus travel is far from affordable. Travel between major cities is considered a real luxury for most of the population.
While it is expensive to live, workers often make 12-13 mil pesos daily, an equivalent of 7 U.S. dollars. Naturally, the Colombians with whom we have worked are curious about the costs of our trip and how we were able to save enough to travel. A few farm workers inquired about T.L.’s hourly wage in Maine for work similar to their own. We told them around $20/hr before taxes. Of course, it seemed a lot, but they concluded that they weren’t too far behind because their employers often supplied lunch- I was embarrassed to correct them that $20 was not what he made in a day, but in an hour. That he might make in a day what they would make in a month was nearly incomprehensible, to all of us.

A recent “development” in Colombia is the TLC or Colombia Trade Promotion (free trade) agreement with the United States, “won” just a few months ago under the Obama administration. The TLC is modeled after most other Latin American free trade agreements with the U.S. – the basic tenet being to open up markets to competition, to introduce new goods and to promote duty-free trade between the two countries. The reality of such agreements, however, has usually meant the livelihoods of small farmers and business people being crushed under a market flooded by cheaper American goods and produce.

This is exactly what Edimer, a small coffee and pig farmer with whom we had been working, worries for his future. Will the largest Colombian coffee coop with the United States become the only coop here? Will this mean the farm which has supported his family for generations will no longer be able to compete? “We can only wait and see what the free trade agreement means for the people”, is the response I have received from most.

In terms of education, affluent students studying in Bogota boasted that la Universidad Nacional and Universidad de los Andes are stellar universities, among the top three in Colombia. Meanwhile, Edimer, who grew up in the campo, has a different take on education here. Edimer studied engineering and industrial planning at a rural university, but has chosen life as a farmer. He suggests that Colombians make lazy students, and that in general people here are more interested in television than reading. He was unique in his community, as many people never finish school and have no interest in university. He recounts the saying “Hay diez policia por cada estudiante y un estudiante por mil ignorantes” or For every 10 police, there is one student and for every student there are 1,000 ignorant people. Edimer suggests that the people are brainwashed by what they watch on television and that media is largely controlled by the government (he deduces that former president Uribe’s wide support was due to biased media).

Edimer also speaks of corruption, especially among the police here: the fatal mix of drugs and very wealthy, influential criminals has resulted in their perpetuating crime. More than anything, he suggested that money buys the government’s permission to be involved in whatever illegal activity one pleases. Meanwhile, the rest of the population pays steep taxes for a huge security force and military to keep crime down. At lunch one day, he described the “prisons” in which many of the country’s superrich criminals are incarcerated… they sounded more like penthouses. Later that day, an exposé on the news showed the suites the “prisoners” lived in. The criminals dined at fancy tables, while watching movies on flat screens. They might exercise at the Gold’s Gym or lounge in their building to pass their hard time.
Edimer calls it a system of “ricos por ricos”, or rich for the rich. Meanwhile, “vivimos en otro cuento” we, the rest of Colombians, live in another story.

Posted by AmyERichards 15:36 Archived in Colombia Comments (0)

A Safer Colombia

While we've made it to Ecuador, limited internet means blog posts will be a little delayed!

In the eyes of much of the world, Colombia still blazons a scarlet letter. With Colombia’s 60 year-armed conflict, the histories of Pablo Escobar, drug cartels, and the murder and kidnapping records by FARC burning red hot in our memories, it challenges our imaginations to think of Colombia as a place peaceful enough to visit. But, it is: Colombia has been moving away from its violent past, at full speed, for much of the past 15 years. The homicide rate almost halved between 2002 and 2006.

Between Plan Colombia under former President Andres Pastrana and the military efforts of former President Alvaro Uribe, Colombia has reduced the amount of cocaine produced within its borders, as well as its kidnappings and homicides, immensely. Alvaro Uribe is credited with a successful anti-guerrilla and narcotraficante campaign in Colombia, although his “democratic security” strategy has been considered controversial by many. The peace process has demobilized most paramilitary groups and has cut the territories occupied by the guerrillas substantially. Colombia’s current president, Juan Manuel Santos, Minister of Defense under Uribe, has persisted with such policies, and peace continues to fill the new gaps in violence.

While the government cracks down, people here take safety and security very seriously. They regard the petty crime and the violence that still characterize the country as shameful. Riding the metro and walking in the streets here, you will find any number of signs and advertisements cautioning against violence and gun use, in the name of the national movement to promote a more peaceful Colombia. Students wear peace patches and adults’ bags advertise anti-violent campaigns. Trucks are littered with “Colombians for Peace” stickers.

Still, Colombians are weary of their own personal safety: they take heed of potential robbers in most open spaces. All properties are locked day and night by gates and often guarded by private security guards toting automatic weapons. The military and police force are huge (Colombia has one of the highest percent of GDP military spending in the world) thanks in large part to Uribe’s campaigns. Military and police presence on the along the highways is strong: there are patrols and regular car and bus searches on most any road throughout the country.

The FARC is still in existence, of course, and it will be generations before families who have fallen victim to their kidnappings and assassinations begin to forget the ruthlessness of their methods. A friend of ours in Bogota recounted the kidnappings of his father and uncles by the FARC, who had held them for over 4 months at a time: he was nonchalant when talking about the kidnappings…they were just something that happened here, in those times.

In general, however, Colombians pride themselves in their movement away from a past ridden by drug and guerrilla violence. They are candid in discussing the problem behind the drug trade: the constant demand for the illegal white powder in the United States. As almost everyone we have spoken with has declared “estamos cansados de la violencia” we are tired of the violence, and more than anything else “estamos hartos de lo que dice el resto del mundo sobre nuestro pais”, we are tired about what the rest of the world says about our country. They hope that the rest of the world will soon see that it is safe to travel in this beautiful country and that there is far more to Colombia than druglords, kidnappings and violent crime.

Posted by AmyERichards 05:09 Archived in Colombia Tagged military police security violence cocaine murders drug_trafficking anti-violence Comments (0)

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